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Review of Taulman 645 Nylon Filament
I spent some time working with Taulman’s 645 Nylon filament over the last several days and I thought I’d give my two cents. First, for small strong small parts it has real potential I printed some incredibly strong parts. I extruded out a 245C and kept my bed at 70C. I tried painters tape, glue stick and Kapton tape and for me strait Kapton tape worked best. My biggest issue in fact was the print was really difficult to remove from the bed, I actually broke one of my glass plates getting a print off. Now I hope you recognized that I clarified that I had great success with small parts because in all my attempts to print larger more complicated models I encountered failure. Simply put I could not stop the model from warping once the model was a larger size. I tried temperature, infill, skirt, print speed, outer wall size and nothing could stop the warping. So in a nutshell if you need small strong parts like nylon washers or rod clamps it’s about the best filament out there but for large models you might need to look elsewhere.
Thoughts on NinjaFlex filament
Experimenting with NinjaFlex which as the name implies is a flexible 3D printing filament. So far my impression is that it’s a great product if not a little difficult to work with. I’m guessing a Bowden would be even more difficult as this stuff is really, really bendable. I found my standard “Go To” setting for my printer just did not work. So to save anyone some time who might read this here is my quick list.
- This material seems to melt slower than normal PLA or ABS so I really had to slow my extruding down. I set all slicer settings to 15 mm per second and that seemed to get things going. Funny as it sounds even my manual extruding using “PrintRun” to get my printer set up extruded too fast.
- If you extrude too fast the extruder will bend the material so if you do start to see slippage in the extruder just give it up, pull out what is in there cut off the 2 inches and re-thread and try again. Once there is slippage the material deforms and the extruder can’t grip it anymore.
- This stuff needs to run hot. I found 250 was a good number with 50 for the bed
- Give up using Kapton tape or some type of hair spray to cause it to stick to the bed. The only way I got things to work was Blue carpenters tape.
If it sounds like a pain to work with then, yea maybe just a little but the results are great. To print something with a little give and bounce is really a trip compared to standard hard plastic and by controlling the infill you can create objects that can go all the way from almost soft to hard as normal plastic.
fortlaud3d 